Take a Deep Breath
You are about to make a wig! Before you start into doing a wig with hair that you absolutely love, you may want to consider doing a few practice rounds with a sewing cap and some synthetic hair. As a general tip, the model packs are fantastic! They come with all the tracks pre-cut and they are less than 20 bucks not including the tax and delivery.
If you are reading this from my kit, follow the directions below and remember you can substitute a dome cap or weaving cap for practice.
If you are using a lace closure please be sure to follow the knot bleaching instructions
If you have a silk top closure, there is nothing you need to do besides cut the excess lace from the edges
After bleaching a lace closure, be sure to take either a wig cap or a knee high that is close to your scalp color and sew onto the closure. This will be sewn along the outer side of the closure and not in the front.
You can view the video if you’re unsure of this description. However, you want to sew the same direction every time. You will take your “C” needle and place it on the underside of your track and base in a “Scoop” motion. You can also see this as a backwards “J”. The motion of your sewing should be Scoop In and pull out.
For your tracks be sure to sew just under your weft if you put your needle through it, you can break the weft or cause it to separate. Ensure that just under still catches the tread and allows your track to stay put.
Sewing of First Track
- Position the Wig Cap on your Wig head of choice upside down
- Make sure the straps that tighten your wig are in the back (this is the back of your wig)
- Start at the bottom and take your longest hair bundle (if you have different lengths of hair)
- Measure the beginning of the track in a straight line across the back (this will not be a long straight line nor will it be U-shaped.)
- Sew this line straight across the underside of your cap
Now that that is complete, flip your cap back over.
At this point you can place it on your head just to see how the hair on the underside falls or you can place it back on the wig head.
Place your closure at the top of the wig cap. There are guidelines on your wig cap that will give you an idea of where to place the closure.
- Once your closure is placed you will sew around the closure onto the wig cap
- Be sure to sew down the sides and the back
- DO NOT SEW THE FRONT – (I know you are concerned about how would it lie down flat, however there are two ways to resolve that 1. Elastic Band or 2. Glue/Tape – We will get to that later)
(See Video if you are unsure. The Pictorial Video of PrincessHairShop Mongolian Kinky Curly has helpful pictures)
Now that your closure is on you are ready to sew your tracks.
Sewing Your Tracks
- You have sewn a track to the underside of the wig, so be sure to start your track right above that one. (Your thread will serve as a guideline.)
- Begin sewing your tracks straight across, practice spacing with your index finger to serve as a measurement. The tracks should be finger width apart.
Question: Are you folding over or cutting?
Fold over Method
- The fold over method is where you never cut the tracks or wefts until you are above the ear.
- If you are sewing across, you will simply fold the track over just above your sewn track and continue to sew.
- The reason why you do not fold above the ear is because the folds will cause bumps and puffiness on the edges. Your wig will not lie flat or smooth.
What are the benefits of folding over?
- You do not cut your wefts which will offer minimal shedding
- Your process will move faster
Sewing Tracks while cutting the wefts
Using this method I would suggest you sew along your base and cut once you reached the end
WARNING: DO NOT SEW ONTO THE ELASTIC PART OF YOUR CAP!
If you sew onto the elastic part of the cap it will restrict it causing it not to fit on your head. You would hate to sit and sew for hours only to find that the cap does not fit on your head. Stop short of the elastic and allow yourself time to continue to take the wig off the mannequin and try it on.
- Continue to sew across stopping short of the elastic band
- As you move above the ear you will begin to start placing your tacks in a U-Shape
- Continue to sew all the way up until you meet your closure
- You can sew a track right on top of the outside of the track where you sewed the closure (this will cover your outer edges and any flesh colored cap or nylon that shows outside the closure)
Cutting Around The Closure
- Once you have completed all your sewing, flip your cap over
- You will take your scissors and cut inside of your sew track so the closure is free from having the cap on the underside
Why are you doing this?
- It allows the front to stay flatter
- It will give your parting a more realistic look
You can sew these clips all along the outside edges of your wig for extra hold
Because you have a lace closure in the front you will be sewing your on both sides of the closure vs. sewing on the under side of the ear tab.
In a regular situation, you would be sewing under the ear tab for a wig you have purchased.
Be sure to measure your band around your head before you start, to ensure if you need to make adjustments to your band length before sewing.
- Place your band on the outside left of your closure, be sure you are sewing the outside and not in the lace
- Sew the band to the closure and be sure to secure it taunt (DO NOT PULL TIGHT) just ensure it is taunt
- Tie off your thread once you are complete
- Place your band on the outside right of your closure and repeat the action
- Once you are complete, you should be able to put the wig on by putting the band on your head first
- The elastic band should be taught enough where it will flatten your closure and secure your wig, it should not be so tight that you feel your eye is about to pop out of your socket.
- Additionally, your elastic band should not cause a headache. If this happens, your band is too tight and cut too short for your head.